Supply Checklist for Starting a Freshwater Aquarium and Setup Guides

Launching a freshwater aquarium is an exciting adventure that blends creativity with the responsibility of nurturing a miniature ecosystem. Anyone who’s dipped their toes into this hobby knows the sheer variety of supplies available can feel daunting. However, selecting the right gear tailored to your tank’s unique needs is the secret to crafting a flourishing aquatic paradise. Whether you envision a rocky retreat buzzing with cichlids or a lush planted tank shimmering with tetras, the proper tools set the stage for success.

This guide delivers a thorough checklist of essential supplies and detailed setup instructions to empower beginners in establishing a freshwater aquarium. From choosing the perfect tank to cycling the water and introducing fish, we’ll walk you through every step to ensure your setup thrives—bringing joy to both you and your future underwater residents.

• Freshwater Aquarium Supply Checklist
  • 1. The Aquarium
  • 2. A Durable Stand
  • 3. Hood/Canopy
  • 4. Lighting System and Timer
  • 5. Filter and Filter Media
  • 6. Heater and Thermometer
  • 7. Substrate
  • 8. Decoration
  • 9. Aquarium Test Kits
  • 10. Water Conditioners
  • 11. Maintenance Tools
  • 12. Optional Supplies
• How to Set Up a Freshwater Aquarium for a Newbie?
• How to Cycle a New Fish Tank?
• How to Add Fish to a New Aquarium?

Freshwater Aquarium Supply Checklist

Before rushing to buy anything, the most vital—and often neglected—task is planning. A well-crafted plan minimizes future hiccups, ensuring your tank meets its inhabitants’ needs right from the start. Key considerations include tank size, placement, environment type (rocky or planted), fish species, substrate, filtration, lighting, heating, and water circulation. Jot down your vision, research your chosen fish, and align equipment with their requirements. With a solid blueprint, you’ll shop with confidence, knowing you’re creating an ideal habitat.

Below is our comprehensive list of must-have supplies, expanded with insights to guide you through this foundational step.

1. The Aquarium

The aquarium is the centerpiece of your setup, and the market offers a dizzying array of options—rectangular, bow-front, hexagonal, and more. Silicon-sealed, frameless glass tanks are the gold standard, prized for their affordability, durability, and sleek design. These tanks provide crystal-clear views, blending elegance with functionality, and are sturdy enough to withstand years of use.

Size is a critical decision. Larger tanks require thicker glass to handle water pressure and occasional knocks, but the common assumption that small tanks are easier to manage is a myth. In fact, maintaining biological stability in a smaller volume—like a 10-gallon tank—is trickier than in a larger one. A single overfeeding, a decaying leaf, or a hidden fish casualty can throw a small tank into turmoil, while greater water volume in bigger tanks dilutes such disturbances, offering a more forgiving environment.

Fish and plants evolved in stable natural habitats, and larger tanks better replicate this consistency. Territorial fish like cichlids demand space to stake their claims, while tall swimmers like angelfish or discus need height—at least 20 inches—to maneuver comfortably. For beginners, a 20-gallon tank (24 x 12 x 16 inches) hits the sweet spot: manageable yet stable, with room for a small community. Before choosing, research your fish’s spatial needs—South American dwarf cichlids, for example, claim surprising territory despite their petite size, while schooling fish like neon tetras prefer open swimming lanes.

Safety outweighs cost here. Source your tank from a trusted dealer to ensure quality construction—a cracked or leaky tank is a disaster waiting to happen. Starting with at least 20 gallons gives you a buffer to learn the hobby without constant crises, setting a strong foundation for your aquatic journey.

2. A Durable Stand

Aquariums are deceptively heavy, weighing about 11 pounds per gallon when filled with water, substrate, and decorations. A 20-gallon tank clocks in at around 220 pounds, while a 100-gallon beast can push 1100 pounds. Your stand must be a fortress—unwavering under this load. For larger setups, specialized aquarium stands are essential, as typical household furniture like bookshelves or TV stands often collapse under the strain.

To protect your investment, place a thin layer of styrofoam, rubber matting, or even a yoga mat between the tank and stand. This cushions mechanical shocks—like an accidental bump—and insulates heat, potentially easing the burden on your heater. Location is just as crucial. Steer clear of windows where direct sunlight fuels algae blooms and overheats water in summer, especially if your tank water is rich in nutrients like nitrates or phosphates—a common scenario in home setups. Positioning the tank against a wall reduces light from all sides, calming skittish fish and simplifying decor compared to a freestanding tank exposed on all fronts.

When selecting a stand, match it to your tank’s footprint and aesthetic. Double-check it’s level with a spirit level—uneven support risks cracks or spills. Explore sturdy options here: https://portlandaquarium.net/fish-tank-stand/.

3. Hood/Canopy

Most aquariums come bundled with a plastic hood or canopy, a practical feature that keeps fish from leaping out, minimizes evaporation, and traps heat. These often include cutouts for lighting fixtures, streamlining your setup. A condensation tray or glass cover between the water surface and hood is non-negotiable—it prevents moisture from reaching electrical components, reducing the risk of shorts or corrosion.

A clear plastic hood lends a modern vibe and pairs beautifully with overhead LED lights, maximizing visibility of your tank’s interior. Some hobbyists opt for glass lids for durability, though they’re heavier and trickier to customize. Whether included or purchased separately, ensure your hood fits securely and aligns with your lighting and maintenance plans. Browse choices here: https://portlandaquarium.net/hood/.

4. Lighting System and Timer

Lighting isn’t just about aesthetics—it’s a lifeline for fish and plants. Fish depend on light cycles to regulate their daily rhythms, retreating to shelters as dusk falls and emerging to forage at dawn. In nature, many freshwater plants grow under the dappled shade of overhanging trees, so unlike reef tanks with their intense illumination needs, freshwater setups thrive with moderate light. Still, plant requirements vary widely: low-light species like Anubias, Java moss, or Cryptocoryne soldier on with minimal lumens, while vibrant red plants like Ludwigia or Alternanthera demand brighter conditions to photosynthesize effectively.

LED lights dominate the hobby for their energy efficiency, longevity, and customizable spectrums. Look for adjustable models to mimic natural sunrise and sunset, enhancing fish behavior and plant growth. A daily cycle of 8-10 hours is ideal—too much light spurs algae, too little stunts plants. Pair your lights with a timer to automate this rhythm, freeing you from manual toggling and ensuring consistency. For a fish-only tank, basic illumination suffices, but planted tanks may need 2-3 watts per gallon or higher, depending on plant density and species. Dive into lighting options here: https://portlandaquarium.net/aquarium-led-light/.

5. Filter and Filter Media

Filters are the backbone of water quality, tirelessly cycling and purifying your tank. Most combine a pump with a canister, channeling water through media to trap debris and foster beneficial bacteria. Internal filters tuck inside the tank—compact but limited in capacity—while external filters (like hang-on-back or canister models) sit outside, boasting larger volumes for thorough cleaning. Prioritize a filter that’s quiet, durable, and user-friendly; a clunky design or leaky hose turns maintenance into a chore.

Filtration happens in three stages: mechanical (snagging visible particles like uneaten food), biological (hosting bacteria that convert ammonia and nitrites into less harmful nitrates), and chemical (using activated carbon to polish water and banish odors). For optimal performance, choose a filter rated to process four times your tank’s volume per hour—80 gallons per hour (GPH) for a 20-gallon tank keeps water crystal-clear and safe. Overfiltration is rarely a problem, but underfiltration invites trouble. Learn more about filters: https://portlandaquarium.net/aquarium-filter/.

6. Heater and Thermometer

Most tropical fish flourish at 75-78°F (24-26°C), a range far warmer than typical room temperatures. A submersible heater with a built-in thermostat keeps water steady, with modern designs rarely faltering. Cold-water fish like goldfish or white cloud minnows prefer 60-72°F (16-22°C) and may not need heating in temperate climates, while delicate species like discus or German blue rams thrive at 82-86°F (28-30°C), where lower temps invite illness.

Size your heater at 4 watts per gallon for reliability—75-100 watts suits a 20-gallon tank, ensuring even warmth without overtaxing the unit. Pair it with a thermometer (glass or digital) to monitor swings, placing it away from the heater for accurate readings. Check heaters here: https://portlandaquarium.net/fish-tank-heater/.

7. Substrate

Substrate isn’t just decor—it shapes your tank’s ecosystem. Bottom-dwellers like Kuhli loaches or dwarf cichlids need fine sand or smooth gravel to sift for food or dig nests, free of jagged edges that could nick their bodies. Calcareous substrates (like crushed coral) suit hard-water lovers like African cichlids, stabilizing pH, but they’re a mismatch for soft-water fish or plants like Amazon swords, which prefer neutral or acidic conditions. For planted tanks, nutrient-rich options like aquatic soil or layered gravel boost root growth.

Granule size matters too—fine substrates (1-2 mm) suit Cryptocoryne or Vallisneria, while coarser mixes (3-5 mm) favor Echinodorus or stem plants. Aim for 1-2 pounds per gallon, or a 2-3 inch layer for plants, ensuring good drainage to avoid anaerobic pockets. Explore substrates: https://portlandaquarium.net/planted-tank-substrate/.

8. Decoration

Decorations personalize your tank while doubling as functional hideouts. Natural choices like slate, river rocks, or driftwood mimic wild habitats, offering caves for shy fish like plecos or bettas. Avoid heavy stacks unless secured with aquarium-safe silicone—toppling rocks can crack glass or harm fish. Balance aesthetics with purpose, keeping swim space open for active species like danios.

9. Aquarium Test Kits

Regular water testing is your window into tank health. Essential tests include: ammonia and nitrite (target 0 ppm for safety), nitrate (high levels signal a water change), and pH (matches fish to your tap water’s profile). During cycling, test daily; afterward, weekly checks suffice. Liquid kits offer precision over strips, especially for beginners troubleshooting issues. More details: https://portlandaquarium.net/water-characteristic-ph-gh-kh/.

10. Water Conditioners

Tap water’s chlorine and chloramine kill bacteria for human safety but wreak havoc on fish, stripping their protective slime coats. Heavy metals like copper or zinc, common in old pipes, compound the threat. Water conditioners neutralize these toxins instantly—some also bind metals or adjust pH for sensitive species. Treat every drop before it hits the tank to shield your fish from stress and disease.

11. Maintenance Tools

Water Changer/Gravel Cleaner

A gravel vacuum siphons debris while refreshing water, keeping substrate fresh. Use it weekly during 20-30% water changes to prevent waste buildup. More: https://portlandaquarium.net/gravel-vacuum-cleaner/.

Algae Scraper/Magnet Cleaner

Magnet cleaners glide along glass, wiping algae without wet hands. Pair with a siphon to remove loosened gunk. Details: https://portlandaquarium.net/algae-magnet-cleaner/.

12. Optional Supplies

Air Pump

Air pumps inject bubbles, boosting oxygen and circulation while preventing stagnant zones. Size them to your tank and features—like airstones or sponge filters. Browse: https://portlandaquarium.net/air-pump/.

Automatic Fish Feeder

Feeders dispense precise meals on schedule—ideal for vacations or busy days. Battery or electric models keep fish fed consistently, reducing overfeeding risks.

How to Set Up a Freshwater Aquarium for a Newbie?

A properly established aquarium promises years of enjoyment—if you get the basics right. Tailor your setup to your fish and plants with these detailed steps, blending practicality with creativity.

1. Choose a Proper Location

Skip sunny spots—direct light breeds algae and spikes temperatures. Opt for a cool, dimly lit area with airflow and nearby outlets for heaters, filters, and lights. Accessibility matters too; you’ll need room for weekly maintenance without wrestling furniture.

2. Place the Tank on the Stand

Measure your tank, stand, and any hang-on-back (HOB) filters to ensure a snug fit. Water weighs 8.3 pounds per gallon, so level the stand with a spirit level—uneven pressure risks cracks. Test-fill outdoors first to spot leaks, sparing your floors.

3. Filtration System Setup

Position your filter—internal, HOB, or canister—leaving clearance from walls for hoses and access. Dry-fit all parts to confirm they mesh before adding water.

4. Plumbing and Electric Supply

Use grounded outlets with heavy-duty cords and breakers. Form drip loops on all tank cords—where the cord dips below the outlet then rises—to divert splashes. Tighten plumbing connections to banish leaks.

5. Build an Attractive Aquascape

Rinse substrate and decor until water runs clear—cloudy residue fouls your tank fast. Layer 2-3 inches of substrate (1-2 pounds per gallon), sloping it for depth if desired. Arrange rocks, driftwood, and plants with your fish in mind—caves for cichlids, open zones for barbs. Anchor plants with tweezers, burying roots gently.

6. Add Water and Test the Filter

Pour conditioned tap water slowly over a plate or bag to preserve your aquascape. Start the filter to check flow and seals, tweaking decor if currents shift it. Cloudy water from substrate settles in a day or two.

7. Lighting and Other Equipment

Test lights—replace dud bulbs and keep fixtures dry. Basic tank lights suit fish-only setups, but planted tanks need 20-40 lumens per gallon, plus CO2 and fertilizers for demanding species. Activate heaters, thermometers, air pumps, and powerheads, ensuring flow matches your fish—gentle for bettas, brisk for hillstream loaches.

How to Cycle a New Fish Tank?

Aquarium nitrogen cycle

Cycling cultivates bacteria to detoxify fish waste—a step too many beginners skip, leading to early losses. Fishless cycling is gentler: dose pure ammonia to 4-5 ppm, testing daily to maintain it until the tank clears it in 24 hours (0 ppm). Nitrites spike next, then fade as bacteria convert them to nitrates—less toxic and manageable with water changes. This takes 4-8 weeks; patience pays off.

Use a liquid test kit for accuracy, tracking ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Speed things up with bottled bacteria or media from a mature tank—just avoid cross-contamination. Fish-in cycling with hardy species like zebra danios works but stresses fish, so fishless is the gold standard. More: https://portlandaquarium.net/nitrogen-cycle/.

How to Add Fish to a New Aquarium?

A fully cycled tank can handle a full stock if fish match behaviorally (peaceful tetras, not aggressive barbs) and environmentally (pH, temperature). Stick to 1 inch of adult fish per gallon—overstocking spikes ammonia. Float bags for 15-20 minutes to equalize temperature, then net fish into the tank—discard bag water to avoid introducing contaminants. For established tanks, quarantine newcomers 2-4 weeks in a separate setup to screen for disease.

Starting a tank is a pledge to your fish’s health. Research diligently—know your guppies from your gouramis—and plan ahead. Your reward is a vibrant, living centerpiece. Details: https://portlandaquarium.net/buy-and-acclimate-new-fish/.