The Ultimate Guide to Dwarf Puffer Care: Mastering the Art of Keeping Pea Puffers

• Scientific name: Carinotetraodon travancoricus
• Common name: Dwarf Puffer, Pea Puffer, Pygmy Puffer, Malabar Puffer
• Origin: Asia – Kerala State, India
• Max length: 1.0 – 1.2 inches (2.5 – 3 cm)
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons (approximately 38 liters)
• Stocking: 1 male and 2-3 females for a 10-gallon aquarium
• Temperament: Fin-nipping; males may be aggressive toward each other; best suited for single-species tanks
• Feeding: Carnivore; prefers live foods (snails, shellfish, worms); accepts frozen foods but rejects dried foods
• Breeding: Very challenging; requires specific conditions and experience
• Habitat: Slow-flowing, heavily vegetated waters of the Pamba River, Kerala State, India
• Tank setup: Dense cover with hiding spots and ample swimming space; live plants recommended
• Active tank levels: All levels, with a preference for the bottom and mid-regions
• Temperature: 71.6 – 82.4°F (22 – 28°C)
• pH: 6.8 – 8.0; slightly acidic to slightly alkaline
• Water hardness (dGH): 5 – 25; tolerates a wide range
• Lifespan: 3 – 7 years with proper care

• Interesting Facts About Dwarf Puffers
• Tank Setup, Layout, and Stocking
• Tankmates for Dwarf Puffers
• Diet, Foods, and Feeding
• Diseases and Treatments
• Breeding Dwarf Puffers

Interesting Facts About Dwarf Puffers

The Dwarf Puffer, scientifically named Carinotetraodon travancoricus, may have a mouthful of a name, but this tiny fish packs a big personality! Known by various aliases—Pea Puffer, Pygmy Puffer, Malabar Puffer—these pint-sized charmers hail from the lush waters of Kerala, India. With their irresistible, expressive faces and quirky behaviors, it’s no wonder they’ve captured the hearts of aquarists worldwide.

One fascinating trait is their chameleon-like eyes, which move independently, giving them a 360-degree view of their surroundings. As a defense mechanism, Dwarf Puffers inflate with water or air to appear larger and deter predators—a spectacle that’s both adorable and impressive. Males are more vibrant, sporting a dark belly stripe and sharper colors, while females are rounder and subtler in hue. Gliding through the tank like miniature sailboats, they steer with their tails acting as rudders, adding to their whimsical appeal.

These fish are unusually curious and intelligent, quickly adapting to their environment. Once settled, they’ll swim up to the glass to investigate—or greet—you, making them surprisingly interactive pets. However, their care requirements and temperament mean they’re not ideal for beginners. With the right setup and attention, though, they thrive and bring endless entertainment.

Tank Setup, Layout, and Stocking

A well-designed tank is crucial for Dwarf Puffers, primarily to manage their territorial tendencies. These fish benefit from a layout that breaks lines of sight and reduces aggression, especially among males. Provide plenty of hiding spots—caves, driftwood, or PVC pipes—alongside dense vegetation. Live plants like Java moss, Anubias, or Cryptocoryne thrive in their preferred subdued lighting and mimic their natural habitat in the Pamba River. Artificial plants work too, as puffers aren’t picky, but the tank must remain engaging to satisfy their exploratory nature.

Despite their small size, Dwarf Puffers need space to roam. Allocate 2.5-3 gallons per fish, so a 10-gallon tank suits 1 male and 2-3 females comfortably. Overcrowding risks fights, as males can be territorial and even fatal to each other. They’re methodical movers—hovering, inspecting every corner—rather than darting around like speedsters. A sandy or fine gravel substrate pairs well with their bottom-dwelling habits, while floating plants like Water Sprite add cover without cluttering swimming areas.

Water quality is non-negotiable. Dwarf Puffers tolerate a wide range of conditions—pH 6.8-8.0, hardness 5-25 dGH, temperature 71.6-82.4°F—but demand pristine water. Their messy diet necessitates robust filtration (e.g., sponge or hang-on-back filters with low flow) and weekly 40-50% water changes to keep nitrates below 20 ppm. Avoid strong currents, as they prefer calm, slow-moving water. A cycled tank is essential—never introduce them to an uncycled setup.

Tankmates for Dwarf Puffers

Dwarf Puffers are best kept in species-only tanks—they’re the peanut butter to the jelly of solitude! Their fin-nipping habits and feisty demeanor make them poor community players. Males, in particular, can harass or injure tankmates, and their slow eating pace puts them at a disadvantage in mixed settings.

For daring aquarists willing to experiment, consider these guidelines:
1. Avoid large or aggressive fish (e.g., cichlids, barbs) that might see puffers as snacks.
2. Feed puffers separately to ensure they aren’t outcompeted by faster eaters.
3. Skip snails if you want to keep them—puffers devour them relentlessly.
4. Steer clear of slow-moving fish or those with long, flowing fins (e.g., guppies, bettas), as they’re prime nipping targets.

Some report success with Otocinclus or small shrimp (e.g., cherry shrimp), but results vary. We’ve not tested these pairings and advise caution—puffers may still view shrimp as food. For harmony, stick to a single-species setup and enjoy their quirky antics undisturbed.

Diet, Foods, and Feeding

Dwarf Puffers are strict carnivores with no interest in flakes or pellets. Their finicky palate demands live or frozen foods, making them a commitment for dedicated keepers. Favorites include blackworms, brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, grindal worms, and daphnia. Bloodworms are often touted as a staple, but ours were reluctant—garlic-soaking helped, though they still prefer blackworms.

Snails are a beloved treat, with soft-shelled pond or bladder snails being easiest to crunch. Contrary to myth, Dwarf Puffers don’t require snails to wear down their teeth (unlike larger puffers), but they relish the hunt. Small live ghost shrimp also stimulate their predatory instincts. Experiment to find your puffer’s preference, feeding small portions 1-2 times daily. Remove uneaten food within 10 minutes to prevent water fouling—crucial given their messy eating habits.

Diseases and Treatments

Many Dwarf Puffers arrive from the wild or importers with internal parasites, a common issue to watch for. Symptoms include a sunken belly, lethargy, or reduced appetite—skip any fish showing these signs at the store. Quarantine new arrivals for 2-4 weeks to monitor health before adding them to your main tank.

As scaleless fish, they’re sensitive to medications, so proceed with care. For external parasites, a salt bath (1-2 teaspoons of aquarium salt per gallon for 10-15 minutes) can help, but monitor stress levels. Natural remedies like Microbe-Lift’s Herbtana and Artemiss or API’s Pimafix and Melafix treat bacterial and fungal infections safely. For internal parasites, products like Seachem Metroplex or API General Cure are options—consult a local fish expert for dosing, as we’ve not tested these ourselves. Weekly garlic-soaked food boosts immunity as a preventative. Avoid copper-based treatments, which are toxic to puffers.

Breeding Dwarf Puffers

Breeding Dwarf Puffers is notoriously difficult, requiring patience and precision. Males court females with elaborate displays—darkening colors and shimmying—often in dense plant cover. A separate 5-10 gallon breeding tank with Java moss or spawning mops, warm water (78-82°F), and pristine conditions encourages spawning. Females lay 5-10 tiny eggs per batch, which males may guard briefly.

Eggs hatch in 5-7 days, but fry are minuscule and fragile, needing infusoria or liquid fry food for weeks. Parents may eat eggs or fry, so remove them post-spawning. Success rates are low without controlled setups and experience—consider this an advanced challenge for seasoned aquarists.