The Complete Guide to Asian Stone Catfish Care: Keeping Hara jerdoni Thriving
- Scientific name: Hara jerdoni
- Common name: Asian Stone Catfish, Anchor Catfish
- Origin: Asia: India, Bangladesh
- Max length: 1.2 – 1.4 inches (3 – 3.5 cm)
- Minimum tank: 10 gallons (approximately 38 liters)
- Stocking: 3-4 fish per 10 gallons with other peaceful tankmates
- Temperament: Peaceful and shy; prefers a calm environment
- Feeding: Nocturnal feeder, omnivore; accepts frozen, dried foods, and occasional live foods
- Breeding: Quite challenging; rarely achieved in captivity
- Habitat: Current-rich rivers, slow-flowing creeks, and streams with rocky or sandy bottoms
- Tank setup: Fine sand substrate, abundant plants, dim lighting, and numerous hiding spots
- Active tank levels: Bottom-dweller; rarely ventures higher
- Temperature: 64.4 – 75.2°F (18 – 24°C); thrives in cooler water
- pH: 5.6 – 7.6; slightly acidic to neutral
- Water hardness: 8 – 15 dGH; prefers moderately soft water
- Lifespan: 5+ years with proper care
- Appearances, Temperament, and Interesting Facts
- Tank Setup, Layout, and Stocking
- Tankmates for Asian Stone Catfish
- Diet, Foods, and Feeding
- Diseases and Treatments
- Breeding Asian Stone Catfish
Appearances, Temperament, and Interesting Facts
If you’re seeking a unique nano tank resident, the Asian Stone Catfish (Hara jerdoni) might be your perfect match. These diminutive bottom-dwellers, also dubbed Anchor Catfish, bring a subtle charm to any aquarium. Viewed from above, their flattened, anchor-shaped bodies—complete with a broad head and tapered tail—explain the nickname perfectly. Their coloration varies with factors like diet, season, and environment, ranging from reddish-brown to light gray, often blending seamlessly with their surroundings.
Known for their peaceful and shy nature, Asian Stone Catfish are nocturnal by habit, preferring to hide during the day and emerge at night. While they may seem reclusive, ours perk up during tank maintenance, darting about and occasionally needing a gentle nudge away from the vacuum. Grouping them in schools of 3-5 boosts their confidence, making them slightly more visible. Despite their hardiness, their specific needs—cool water, dim lighting, and a varied diet—classify them as intermediate to advanced fish, not ideal for beginners.
Fun fact: Unlike many catfish, they lack a strong affinity for driftwood, favoring leafy plants instead. Their small size and cryptic behavior make them masters of hide-and-seek, adding an element of discovery to fishkeeping.
Tank Setup, Layout, and Stocking
A well-planned tank is key to keeping Asian Stone Catfish happy. Opt for a fine sand substrate—they love burrowing into it—and pair it with abundant live plants like Bolbitis, Vallisneria nana, or Java fern. These mimic their natural creek habitats and provide cover. Dim lighting, achievable with low-intensity LEDs or floating plants (e.g., Salvinia), suits their light-sensitive nature. Add hiding spots—small caves, PVC pipes, or stacked rocks—to offer security.
A 10-gallon tank comfortably houses 3-4 cats with tankmates, as they aren’t active swimmers and don’t demand vast open space. However, water quality is critical: they thrive in cool (64.4-75.2°F), well-oxygenated water and won’t tolerate an uncycled tank. Use a gentle filter (e.g., sponge or low-flow hang-on-back) supplemented with an air stone or powerhead to maintain oxygen levels, especially at higher temperatures. Weekly 20-30% water changes and substrate vacuuming keep nitrates below 15 ppm, reducing disease risk.
Stocking should account for their shy demeanor—overcrowding or boisterous neighbors can stress them. Their bottom-dwelling lifestyle means they rarely explore upper tank levels, so focus decor and companions accordingly.
Tankmates for Asian Stone Catfish
Asian Stone Catfish shine in peaceful, cool-water community tanks. Keep them in groups of 3-5 to encourage social behavior and reduce timidity. Ours coexist harmoniously with white cloud minnows and red rili shrimp, creating a balanced, serene setup. Other compatible tankmates include celestial pearl danios, kuhli loaches, gold barbs, espei rasboras, and scarlet badis. In larger tanks (20+ gallons), farlowellas or otocinclus make excellent additions.
Avoid aggressive or fast-moving fish (e.g., tiger barbs, large cichlids) that might intimidate or outcompete them for food. Their nocturnal feeding habits mean daytime-active bottom-dwellers (like corydoras) may work, but monitor to ensure food access. Shrimp and small snails are generally safe, as these catfish aren’t predatory, though tiny fry might occasionally be at risk.
Diet, Foods, and Feeding
Asian Stone Catfish are nocturnal omnivores, making feeding a bit of a mystery—we’ve never caught ours in the act, yet they thrive! Offer a varied diet of frozen foods (bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia), sinking catfish pellets, algae wafers, and blanched veggies (zucchini, cucumber). Some refuse dry foods initially, so start with live or frozen options like blackworms or tubifex to entice them, then gradually introduce pellets.
Feed after lights out to match their active hours, dropping food near their hiding spots. Use a flashlight with a red filter to observe without startling them. Small portions once daily suffice—remove uneaten food within 12 hours to maintain water quality. If housed with other bottom-dwellers, ensure they aren’t outcompeted by scattering food across the tank base.
Diseases and Treatments
Their bottom-dwelling nature makes Asian Stone Catfish prone to bacterial and fungal infections, often from dirty substrates. Watch for signs like lethargy, white patches, or clamped fins. Quarantine new fish for 2-3 weeks to catch issues early. Weekly substrate vacuuming and water changes are your best defense.
For treatment, scaleless-safe options like API’s Melafix (bacterial) or Pimafix (fungal) work well at half-dose—full strength may stress them. Salt baths (1 teaspoon aquarium salt per gallon, 10-15 minutes) tackle external parasites, but monitor closely. Internal parasites (e.g., thinness despite feeding) may require Seachem Metroplex—consult a fish store expert for guidance. Avoid copper-based meds, which are toxic to catfish. Garlic-soaked food weekly boosts immunity naturally.
Breeding Asian Stone Catfish
Breeding Hara jerdoni in captivity is rare and challenging. Little is documented, but they’re believed to scatter eggs among plants or substrate in the wild. A 10-gallon breeding tank with cool water (68-70°F), dense vegetation, and a gentle current might trigger spawning. Males may darken during courtship, guarding eggs post-lay. Eggs hatch in 5-10 days, with fry needing infusoria or micro worms. Success is low without pristine conditions and experience—consider it an expert-level goal.
can i have mine in a tank with a beta that’s around 74 degrees to 76 at all times?
Yes, you can.
Do you have a breeding group of Rili Shrimp housed in with the Stone Catfish? Do the Catfish eat your Rili Shrimp fry?
If no I might try some with my guppy/shrimp tank…
Thanks!
Hi Michael,
It is possible for these fish to eat baby shrimp; however, it will not affect too much the population of your shrimp. It is very hard for them to catch a baby shrimp as they can’t see the shrimp for chasing.
Hi Lucas, I have 5 of these with 4 otos and a few RCS. They are very active early evening and I have seen them investigating the floating plants and snuffling around in the cholla wood/moss “trees”
They love slurping bloodworms. I have a suspicion that they also hunt detritus worms and possibly tiny baby snails. I agree that they have very poor eyesight.
My question is have you ever know yours to shed their skin?
One of mine looked like it was doing that last night so I did an emergency water change . The others are all fine and the one with the shedding problem still seems happy and normal in it’s behaviour.
There is so little info on them so any advice welcome 🤗
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 10 last night now 5
Ph 7.5
KH 7
Gh7
Hi Helen,
Shedding skin is a serious problem with these catfish, this could be a sign of death. Normally, this problem is caused by a drop in the oxygen level or increased nitrates. Your water is ok, so I think the problem may be the oxygen level. Hope this help.
Thank you for the reply Lucas.
I have increased surface movement to encourage more oxygen exchange and all Hara are fine. I am wondering if maybe it had just changed colour which made it look like it had shed? I had the blue light on at the time…
Anyway, they are all eating and wiggling as usual but I will be keeping a very close eye on them.
Could I keep four of these guys and a betta in a five gallon? I would do weekly gravel cleanings and a 50% water change every week. And what and when should you feed them? Thanks
Yes, there is no problem with this. Feed them twice a day with foods in the article. They also consume uneaten foods from the Betta.
Is it normal for the catfish to hang out at the top of the tank with floating plants even if the water is well oxygenated
You should check ammonia, nitrite, pH,… and ensure everything is ok.