The Ultimate Guide to Angelfish Care: Mastering the Majesty of Pterophyllum scalare

• Family: Cichlidae
• Scientific name: Pterophyllum scalare
• Common name: Angelfish, Black Angel, Lace Angel
• Distribution: South America: Amazon River Basin, Brazil, Guyana, French Guiana
• Max length: 6 – 8 inches (15 – 20 cm) in length; up to 12 inches (30 cm) in height with fins
• Minimum tank size: 30 gallons (approximately 113 liters)
• Stocking: Keep singly or in shoals of 4 or more to minimize aggression
• Temperament: Semi-aggressive; territorial with conspecifics
• Diet: Carnivorous; accepts flakes, prefers varied live and frozen foods
• Breeding: Spawning; moderately easy with proper conditions
• Habitat: Amazon River and its tributaries; slow-moving, plant-rich waters
• Tank setup: Planted aquarium with broadleaf plants, ample swimming space
• Hangs out: Middle levels; occasionally explores top and bottom
• Care level: Easy to medium; suitable for intermediate keepers
• Temperature: 75 – 82°F (24 – 28°C); prefers warmer range
• pH: 5.8 – 7.5; slightly acidic to neutral
• Water hardness: 0 – 12 dGH; thrives in soft water
• Lifespan: Up to 10 years with optimal care

• About Angelfish and Varieties
• Tank Setup and Layout
• Temperament, Tankmates, and Stocking
• Diet, Foods, and Feeding
• How to Breed Angelfish
• Diseases and Treatments
• Behavioral Insights and Enrichment
• Troubleshooting Common Issues

About Angelfish and Varieties

Angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare) are iconic freshwater fish, celebrated for their elegant, triangular shape and flowing fins. Native to the Amazon River Basin and its tributaries—including Brazil’s Amapá, Guyana’s Essequibo River, and French Guiana’s Oyapock River—these cichlids thrive in slow-moving, plant-filled waters like swamps and flooded forests. Their striking appearance and graceful movements make them a standout addition to any aquarium, captivating hobbyists worldwide.

In the wild, Angelfish sport a silver body with four dark vertical bars, but selective breeding has birthed a dazzling array of varieties. Their compressed, disc-like bodies and elongated dorsal and anal fins—reaching up to 12 inches in height—lend them an ethereal quality, often likened to underwater angels. Here’s a detailed look at popular varieties:

– **Silver**: The classic wild form, featuring a shimmering white body with four bold black stripes. Some display subtle black speckles across the upper half, adding depth to their look.
– **Veiltail**: Known for extra-long, flowing fins, available in all color morphs—ideal for showcasing dramatic elegance.
– **Black**: A solid, velvety black hue that exudes sophistication and mystery.
– **Black Lace**: Similar to Silver but with delicate, lace-like patterns on the fins, blending subtlety with intricacy.
– **Zebra**: An enhanced Silver variant with additional stripes extending through the tail, creating a dynamic pattern.
– **Blushing**: A white body with rosy patches below the eyes; less hardy but visually striking.
– **Half Black**: A split design—white front, black rear—offering a bold contrast.
– **Marble**: Swirls of black, silver, and gold replace stripes, mimicking a marbled stone effect.
– **Golden**: Ranges from silvery white to rich gold, free of markings, radiating a warm glow.

Each variety brings its own flair, but all share the Angelfish’s signature grace. Their adaptability to captivity, combined with a lifespan of up to 10 years, makes them a rewarding choice for aquarists willing to meet their needs.

Tank Setup and Layout

Angelfish demand a spacious environment due to their size—6-8 inches long, 12 inches tall with fins. A minimum 30-gallon tank is essential, but taller tanks (at least 18-24 inches high) suit their vertical swimming habits. For a shoal of 4-6, consider a 55-gallon or larger setup to reduce territorial spats and provide ample room.

Mimicking their Amazonian roots, a well-planted aquarium is key. Broadleaf plants like Amazon Sword, Java Fern, and Anubias offer spawning surfaces and natural cover, reducing stress and aggression. Plants also oxygenate water, absorb nitrates, and curb algae growth. Add driftwood and smooth rocks for texture, ensuring open mid-level swimming zones remain—Angelfish glide more than dart.

Water parameters should reflect their wild habitat: 75-82°F (aim for 78-80°F), pH 5.8-7.5 (ideally 6.5-6.9), and soft water (0-12 dGH). A gentle hang-on-back or canister filter with adjustable flow maintains clarity without disrupting their calm preference. Weekly 20-30% water changes keep nitrates below 20 ppm—pristine water quality is non-negotiable in a cycled tank. Dim lighting or floating plants (e.g., Water Sprite) soften the ambiance, enhancing their comfort.

Temperament, Tankmates, and Stocking

Angelfish are semi-aggressive, a trait rooted in their cichlid lineage. They coexist peacefully with similar-sized community fish but turn territorial with their own kind or during breeding. Stock them singly or in groups of 4-6—pairs or trios often lead to bullying, as the dominant fish asserts control. In shoals, aggression diffuses, fostering harmony.

Their displays of dominance are theatrical: locking lips in a tug-of-war, pecking, or circling to claim turf. These rituals rarely cause harm, serving as power plays rather than battles. Their curiosity shines too—tap the glass, and they’ll glide over, mouths twitching, expecting food. This blend of boldness and inquisitiveness adds personality to any tank.

Tankmates must be chosen wisely. Avoid small fish (e.g., neon tetras, guppies) they might eat, or fin-nippers (e.g., tiger barbs) that target their flowing fins. Compatible companions include larger tetras (e.g., black skirt, serpae), peaceful algae eaters (e.g., Siamese algae eaters), small sharks (e.g., red-tail), and gouramis (e.g., dwarf, honey). Corydoras and plecos work well at the bottom, leaving mid-level space for Angels. Introduce Angels last to established tanks to curb territorial claims.

In a 30-gallon tank, a solo Angelfish thrives with a few bottom-dwellers (e.g., 6 corydoras, 2 otocinclus). For a shoal, a 55-gallon setup supports 4-6 Angels, 10-12 tetras, and a small cleanup crew. Overcrowding spikes aggression, so plan stocking with their 12-inch fin span in mind.

Diet, Foods, and Feeding

Angelfish are carnivorous, preying on small fish and invertebrates in the wild. In captivity, they adapt to commercial foods but thrive on variety. High-quality flakes or pellets (e.g., cichlid-specific formulas) form a solid base, but supplementing with live and frozen foods optimizes health, color, and breeding success.

Favorites include live brine shrimp, mosquito larvae, chopped earthworms, and feeder guppies (ensure quarantine to avoid disease). Frozen options—bloodworms, daphnia, mysis shrimp, and tubifex—offer convenience without sacrificing nutrition. Offer small portions 2-3 times daily, adjusting to what they consume in 2-3 minutes to prevent overfeeding and water fouling. During breeding, increase live food frequency to fuel egg production and parental vigor.

They’ll occasionally nibble plant matter or algae, but it’s not their focus—don’t rely on them for cleanup. Their predatory instincts mean they’ll chase anything moving, so tailor feeding to their mid-level hangout zone, ensuring food sinks slowly or floats briefly.

How to Breed Angelfish

Breeding Angelfish is moderately easy with the right setup, rewarding keepers with their monogamous devotion and spawning displays. Here’s a comprehensive guide to success:

### 1. Monogamous Mates for Life
Angelfish pair off and mate for life, reaching maturity at 6-12 months. Once bonded, they rarely accept new partners, even after loss—loyalty defines them. They defend each other fiercely, chasing off rivals. Spawning peaks from 1-3 years, tapering off thereafter.

### 2. Parenting: A Mixed Bag
Inbreeding has dulled their instincts—some pairs meticulously fan and guard eggs, removing duds, while others eat them as a snack. Most breeders separate eggs post-lay to boost survival, using a 1-2 gallon jar with aeration and methylene blue (1-2 drops/gallon) to fend off fungus.

### 3. Optimal Breeding Conditions
Trigger spawning with a 20-30 gallon tank, pristine water (weekly 50% changes), and a temperature bump to 80-82°F. A pH of 6.5-6.9 and soft water (4-8 dGH) mimic their Amazonian spawning grounds. Feed a rich diet—live brine shrimp, bloodworms, daphnia—for 2-3 weeks prior. Adding water from another breeding tank can spark instincts. Insert a slate slab at a 30-degree angle or broadleaf plants (e.g., Amazon Sword) as egg-laying sites.

Females lay 100-1200 eggs based on size and health, with males fertilizing immediately. Healthy pairs spawn biweekly in ideal conditions, resting briefly between cycles.

### 4. Hatching and Early Days
Eggs hatch in 2-3 days at 80°F, revealing tadpole-like fry still attached to the slate or plant. If left with parents, remove bottom-dwellers (e.g., plecos, snails) that might eat fry. After 4-5 days, fry become free-swimming, darting clumsily as yolk sacs deplete.

### 5. Feeding Fry
Flakes won’t do—fry need live, wiggling food to trigger feeding instincts. Newly hatched brine shrimp (0.05 tsp, 3-4 times daily) is gold-standard, hatched fresh for nutrition. Microworms or vinegar eels suit smaller setups, supplemented by plant-borne microorganisms. Without live food, 90% mortality is common in the first month. By week 3, introduce crushed flakes as they grow.

### 6. Teenage Rebellion
At 3-4 weeks, fry nip at parents, escalating to aggression that can wound adults. Separate them into a 10-20 gallon grow-out tank with gentle filtration (e.g., sponge filter) and dense plants. They reach juvenile size (2-3 inches) by 3 months, developing fins and colors.

### 7. Moving On
Juveniles can be traded at fish stores for credit or sold—healthy specimens fetch $5-20 each, depending on variety and market. Professional breeders scale up with multiple pairs, using 55-gallon tanks to maximize yield.

Diseases and Treatments

Angelfish are hardy but vulnerable to common ailments like ich, fin rot, and hole-in-the-head disease (HITH) from stress, poor water, or diet deficiencies. Ich shows as white spots—treat with heat (82°F) and salt (1 tbsp/5 gallons) for 10 days, or half-dose ich meds (e.g., malachite green). Fin rot (ragged fins) responds to API’s Furan-2 or water changes with antibiotics if severe. HITH (pitting on head) ties to low minerals and poor nutrition—boost water hardness (8-12 dGH) and add vitamin-rich foods (e.g., spirulina flakes).

Quarantine new fish 2-4 weeks to catch parasites—internal worms (e.g., camallanus) show as red threads at the vent, treatable with Levamisole (consult a vet). Weekly garlic-soaked food prevents parasites, while pristine water sidesteps most issues. Avoid copper treatments unless diluted—they’re sensitive to heavy metals.

Behavioral Insights and Enrichment

Angelfish thrive with stimulation—mirrors (briefly) spark curiosity, mimicking rivals, while floating toys or gentle bubbles entertain without stress. Their mid-level focus makes them ideal for layered aquascapes—pair with bottom-dwellers and top-swimmers for a dynamic tank. Watch their lip-locking duels or synchronized swimming in shoals; it’s a window into their social world.

In a 55-gallon planted tank, 6 Angels glide among swords and driftwood, their fins swaying like banners. Add 10 black skirt tetras and 6 corydoras, and the scene balances activity and calm—a slice of the Amazon at home.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

– **Aggression**: Increase tank size or reduce stocking—add hiding spots to break sightlines.
– **Faded Colors**: Check diet (add live foods) and water (soft, acidic is best).
– **No Spawning**: Raise temp to 80°F, improve nutrition, and ensure a bonded pair.
– **Fry Loss**: Separate eggs or fry early, and feed live foods religiously.

With patience and care, Angelfish transform any aquarium into a living masterpiece, their decade-long reign a testament to their allure.